December 15, 2014 § Leave a comment
December 15th, 2014
We always try to save a special shipment for the holiday season, something full of nice high-end reds that our Club members can pour over holiday dinners or get-togethers.
Sunset Hills Vineyard 2012 Reserve Cabernet Franc – Once more, in the 2012 vintage, some of our most vibrant, spice-filled, and lush Cabernet Franc came from Estate Vineyard #1, from which we have been bottling our Reserve Cabernet Franc since it’s inception in 2007. With the 2012, we chose barrels based not only on expressiveness and ripeness, but also on depth of texture and structure. I consider this to be a step in the right direction with this wine, producing a Reserve Cab Franc that should show more finess than in previous years.
Generally, Vineyard #1 needs very little blending – maybe a bit of Merlot or Petit Verdot – but the wine does require time both in barrel and in bottle to allow the tannins to mellow out a bit. With 12 months in oak and another 12 months in bottle, we’ve done the diligence on our end so that the 2012 Reserve Cabernet Franc is fully drinkable now (although another 2-5 years is recommended for those who have the patience). Just released, we will be pouring this in the tasting room over the next two or three months.
Sunset Hills Vineyard 2012 Dusk – Our second bottling of our port-style dessert wine. Produced using 100% Chambourcin from Catesby Vineyard. While we are fermenting on the skins, aged grape brandy is added incrementally during fermentation until the fermentation is arrested at 18% alcohol. We then age the resulting wine in a 60/40 blend of neutral oak and used whiskey barrels, imparting subtle and smooth coconut, vanilla, and charred toast aromatics. Closest in style to a ruby port, but with darker fruits and a bit more tannin.
Our Dusk wines thus far have been bottled in very limited quantities, meaning that after this shipment we will not have much left, and our inventory will dwindle down over the winter months. This wine is only ever available to the club, and while we don’t know for certain how long the aging will be, our anticipation is 3-7 years.
November 5, 2014 § Leave a comment
November 5th, 2014
Today we pick the last lot of grapes – a late harvest Vidal Blanc from Catesby Vineyard. That marks 37 separate picks for the season, and over 60 sublots of wine either fermenting or now aging in our cellar. It’s been our largest harvest yet (not to mention our longest, running from September 1st until today, November 5th), and the quality of fruit has been fantastic. It’ll be a bit sad to see these fermentations end.
The 2014 vintage in Virginia will likely be marked by several things: (1) the vine damage caused by the unusually cold temperatures in the late winter, (2) fairly wet but healthy Spring and early Summer, (3) a coooooooool late summer leading into fall, keeping ripening at a moderate pace but also allowing for a better alcohol / ripeness / acidity balance than we generally see in Virginia, and (4) some wonderful weeks in September and October that allowed for a full (albeit late) ripening of all varieties. Additionally, at Sunset Hills, it will be marked by hail damage that we received at Shenandoah Springs on July 2nd. This did not affect any final wine quality but did affect our yields.
The whites came in, for the most part, spread out over all of September. Fruit quality here was exceptional, with very ripe flavors and moderate must weights, which is especially important for our Viognier blocks and some of our smaller-berried Chardonnay clones. Thanks to the great weather we were able to pick at a (relatively) moderate pace and were not forced into any speed pickings, which allows for great quality control both in the vineyard and cellar. We tried a number of new things this year: further experiments with press wines, more barrel fermentations, cordoning off vineyard blocks into sub-blocks, et cetera. We tend to get a little geeky.
The only snag in harvest was a huge rain on October 15th, which we chose to avoid as much as possible by bringing in the bulk of our Cab Franc and Petit Verdot just prior to. Anything hanging after that was in it for the long haul and, thankfully, paid off immensely – the last week of harvest we found ourselves picking uber-ripe Cabernet Franc from our estate, with a density and extraction more akin to that of 2010 (although these grapes got to those end points in much different ways), as well as some blockbuster Petit Verdot. We will have a wide range of styles for our reds – ripe and fruit forward with moderate alcohol, and big, dense, and masculine. Blending will be very important.
Today, the last day of harvest, we are picking our late harvest Vidal. This is a wine we’ve attempted to make every year since 2009, but unfortunately have succeeded at only twice (2009 and 2010), because we sometimes struggle to get enough noble rot in our vineyards. This is the longest we’ve ever let Vidal hang and I’m very excited at the level of botrytis and ripeness within the vineyard. We will be pressing tomorrow and then will get a better idea of whether it was a success.
Today, though, is a bit bittersweet for me. I’m glad to see the light at the end of the tunnel, to have my weekends back, to enjoy the fall in Virginia, but I’m also always sad when we finish. Luckily, we’ve got our work cut out for ourselves in the elevage of these wines, so really it never stops.
September 11, 2014 § Leave a comment
Stellar wines this go-round!
Sunset Hills Vineyard 2013 Reserve Chardonnay – Seeing as how we don’t make very much of this wine on any given year, it’s been quite a while since we’ve had any bottles to sell. Seven months, to be exact. And as such you can imagine we’re very excited to be releasing the 2013 vintage. It’s been a long time coming, but we always like to hold onto our Reserve Chardonnay for an October or November release, as it generally prefers some time in bottle (and not to mention it’s such a great Thanksgiving wine).
The 2013 vintage is a blend of clone 17 fruit from our Shenandoah Springs Vineyard, as well as the “upper” block of Estate Vineyard #1 – both nice, rich, very-ripe expressions of the grape. These Chardonnays are entirely fermented and aged in French oak (about 20% new), with our standard lees stirring winter and spring, giving the wine wonderful vanilla, coconut, cream, and butterscotch qualities. Behind that stands exotic ripe fruit, a nice round mouthfeel, and a dashing of oak tannins. This wine is released specifically for the club shipment.
Sunset Hills Vineyard 2013 Cabernet Franc – The 2013 Cabernet Franc marks our second bottling of this wine as a vineyard designate, produced entirely from fruit off our Shenandoah Springs Vineyard. This wine is deeper and darker, with more extraction, than what was made from the 2012 harvest – this is a result of adjustments in pruning and cropload, as well as seasonal differences, and some slight adjustments in the winery (more post-fermentation maceration, warmer fermentation temperatures, a bit more oak, even a splash of Tannat).
One of our more dense, earthy vintages of Cabernet Franc to be released since 2009. Like the Reserve Chardonnay, this wine is just now being released to the club members.
September 9, 2014 § Leave a comment
May 29, 2014 § Leave a comment
May 28th, 2014
We are through initial tastings and have moved toward blending for many of our 2013 red wines, and as such the vintage itself has been coming into focus more and more. The 2013 vintage was often quite confusing for us, in that we saw considerably variation in fruit from different vineyard blocks, and it was not always as predictable as in pervious years. Additionally, we couldn’t make up our minds about which blocks would be standouts – sometimes we’d bring in a Merlot, for example, that seemed so promising as fruit in the vineyard, but during fermentation lacked vibrancy; sometimes vice versa; sometimes the wines surprised us as they grew out of their infancy in barrel. As the dust has settled and we look toward the early bottlings of these wines, our understanding of the vintage as a whole has certainly grown, and we can begin to make sense of the reds we’ll be bottling from 2013.
Merlots – Much like 2012, we see significant variation between vineyards and vineyard blocks. The standouts here are without a doubt Estate Vineyard #2 and Estate Vineyard #3. These wines are dark, complex, earthy, extracted, and powerful – not quite approachable yet, as far as tannins go, and as such we will allow another 6 months to a year on oak – but after some additional mellowing these two blocks will be promoted for use either in Reserve wines or in the Mosaic itself. Both vineyards were entirely uninoculated fermantations, which seems to push the wines quickly past their primary fruits into more interesting realms. Unfortunately for the season, the frost affected yields on much of our Merlot and our vintage bottling of this wine will likely be only half of what it was in 2012, but it is a strong year, vibrant, fruity, and dense. We plan to bottle the 2013 Merlot prior to the 2014 harvest, in August. The remaining blocks will remain in barrel until 2015.
Cabernet Francs – I remember saying during harvest, “I think all our Cab Franc this year will be Reserve quality.” We adjusted pruning in our Shenandoah Springs Vineyard significantly, and it paid off. Felix, one of our vineyard managers, said, “I’ve never tasted this fruit so ripe, or seen such dark berries.” And then we went nuts in the cellar, extending the maceration of certain lots to a month as the tannins softened and midpalate lengthened. Today we’re pulling the base for our 2013 Cabernet Franc blend. It’s a brooding wine. Dark and earthy like the bigger Merlots, but with cedar and smoke and clove. Less fruity and more evolved than our Cabernet Francs tend to be. And that’s not to mention what’ll actually make the Reserve – Estate Vineyard #1 and Estate Vineyard #3, which each have a well-defined savory quality, with cinnamon and nutmeg and juniper. Lots of great options here.
Cabernet Sauvignons – Picked after an almost four-day rain in mid-October, we unfortunately lost the bigness and impact that we were hoping for, trading it for some leaner, more round and easy-drinking Cab Sauvs. The standout here is Estate Vineyard #2, which we picked in two tries and which is still quite youthful and brightly fruity, but with complexity of texture and tannin. All our grower Cab Sauv will likely be used in the 2013 Sunset Red, leaving us with a small quantity of a high quality varietal bottling for 2013. Still we see that even in a solid season like 2013, the late-season rains can make this varietal very difficult in Virginia. But the blocks that are good are really good, so it’s hard not to give it a go each new season.
Petit Verdots – This was the year of Petit Verdot for Sunset Hills. Full crops from Shenandoah Springs, Catesby, and Estate Vineyard #3 – all quite different and destined for different bottlings. Shenandoah Springs is the lightest of the bunch, with black pepper aromatics and surprisingly round and easy tannins for this notoriously difficult to tame varietal. Catesby and Estate Vineyard #3 are both monsters – clove, bramble, fig, sultana, jammy fruit, with thick, sinewy tannins. As such, the Shenandoah Springs will likely find its way into numerous blends, lending structure and dark fruits, while Catesby and Estate Vineyard #3 will be promoted to use in Reserve wines and/or into our 2013 Petit Verdot.
May 14, 2014 § Leave a comment
May 16th, 2014
Sunset Hills Vineyard 2013 Viognier -
Something is in the air today. As I sat down to type up the notes for our 2013 Viognier, I see that just this morning the 2013 Viognier was awarded the Chairman’s Award (Unanimous Gold) at the Riverside International Wine Competition – an award no previous Sunset Hills wine was won. So what better day than today to open a bottle and write the notes?
The 2013 Viognier follows the 2012 vintage in many ways – these have been ripe, full years for Viognier, focused on large mouthfeel, full texture, and ripe floral aromatics. The 2013 shows acacia, honeysuckle, mango, and passion fruit, with a supple, rich body and a very vivid, lively finish. Slightly off-dry, even at this young age the 2013 seems harmonious and well-delineated. Sadly (yes, there’s a downside here), due to the now imfamous (amongst winemakers) Mother’s Day frost of 2013, we lost a good portion of our Viognier crop. As such, this wine will be reserved especially for our Club members, and will likely not be poured in our tasting room for the duration of the year.
Blend: 95% Viognier, 5% Petit Manseng
Vineyards: Estate Vineyard #1, Estate Vineyard #3, Catesby Vineyard, Bethany Ridge Vineyard
Sunset Hills Vineyard 2012 Cabernet Sauvignon -
At last! A new vintage of Cab Sauv! It’s been far too long, and what’s particularly exciting is how well this wine has already opened up in bottle, which is the reason we’ve decided to include it in this shipment. Generally we would sit on this wine until the fall, but it’s pouring far too well right now.
Aromatics of blackcurrant, stewed fruit, plum, and toast are already present, with a nice depth to the palate, and lots of black fruit flavors of black cherry and blackberry. Not quite as bulky and lush as our 2010 Cab Sauv, our 2012 vintage focuses on black fruits, sweet spices, and penetrating aromatics, with a medium body and a long clove and nutmeg finish. Fully ripe and very expressive at this early stage, we would expect this wine to continue gaining in complexity over the next five years.
Blend: 85% Cabernet Sauvignon, 10% Merlot, 5% Petit Verdot
Vineyards: Estate Vineyard #2, Shenandoah Springs Vineyard, Malick Vineyard, Breaux Vineyards
May 8, 2014 § Leave a comment
May 8th, 2014
“What a strange thing!
to be alive
beneath cherry blossoms.”
Spring has come fast and late in Virginia this year, and it’s erupting quickly. When the forsythia and jonquils first bloom I am always reminded of a quote – “Every spring is the only spring – a perpetual astonishment,” – but this year it has really exploded quickly. Partly this is due to the extremely cold winter combined with a cold early spring, pushing back the awakening period for most plants, so that they all came nearly at once, in one big burst.
It’s now the second week of May, and overall we’re seeing about 60%-70% budbreak. Ask me again after this weekend and it’ll be more like 80%. Budbreak was late this year – if there’s an “average” in Virginia, then the 2014 season seems to be about two weeks behind. Also interesting is that the order of varietal budbreak is a bit off this year. Whereas we normally see Chardonnay and Viognier first, coupled with Merlot and some of the young canes in Cab Franc, after which the later varieties begin to break, this year we’re seeing a pretty even break amongst all varietals, save for Petit Verdot, Cab Sauv, and Tannat, which are just starting to push. I’ve asked our neighboring grapegrowers and most are seeing the same. It will be interesting to see whether the timing of flowering and bloom adjusts to this pace or not.
“It is Spring again. The Earth is like a child that knows poems by heart.” – Rainer Maria Rilke